To build anything well, you first need a good foundation. In his new series, The New Essentials, associate editor Evan Malachosky lays out what clothing staples that do just that — provide a perfect baseline from which to build a stylish wardrobe. He came on to discuss the thought process behind the series (which can also be found in our magazine), how to think more intelligently about your wardrobe, as well as some of the stories behind the specific picks he called out in the four sections.
• Men's Footwear Essentials
• Pants, Shorts and Sweats to Build Your Wardrobe
• The 8 Types of Tops You Should Own
• Accessories to Add Interest to Your Outfits
Nick Caruso:
This is The Gear Patrol Podcast for Friday, November 5th, 2021. I'm Nick Caruso. And I'm glad you're here because today, I'm talking with none other than assistant editor, Evan Malachosky, who is tuning in from points west, or like points west of here, at least, to discuss the new essentials. And the new essentials is a series of stories Evan has put together for gearpatrol.com and for the next issue of Gear Patrol Magazine, which by the way, you can pick up very, very soon. And these are recommendations for how to revamp, or refresh, or maybe revive your wardrobe and take it in a new direction. It's time to do that. And he covers everything from footwear, to... Well, I'll let Evan tell you. How about that? I'll let Evan tell you. Evan, hello, and thank you for joining me today.
Evan Malachosky:
Hey, Nick. How are you?
Nick Caruso:
I'm doing great.
Evan Malachosky:
It's good to be on.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah. Yeah. It's been a while since we've shared some podcast time.
Evan Malachosky:
I think it was the summer. Yeah.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah, which seems like a very long time ago. Now that it's in, what is it, subzero degrees everywhere.
Evan Malachosky:
It's getting close, especially in my western Pennsylvania abode. It's a little cold.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah. My parents over in Michigan love to tell me the weather update every day.
Evan Malachosky:
Quite cold?
Nick Caruso:
Yeah. I get screenshots of weather apps with the markup, circled, and just says burr on it. Very, very parents. So the new essentials. I sort of took a shot at describing exactly what these picks and recommendations are meant to be, but can you go into a little more depth? What are the list, the new essentials, the items? But what, as a concept, are the new essentials?
Evan Malachosky:
Yeah. Absolutely. I mean, you did a pretty good job. It's we looked at not necessarily 26 specific items, but more 26 categories within bigger categories, like footwear, tops, bottoms, and accessories. And we worked backwards. We did some research on, and we just observed what was going on in men's wear. And instead of prescribing, you need this t-shirt or this button-down, we talked more about chore coats, for example, as something that within the outerwear and within the larger tops category, is something that not only you should be really paying attention to as a style, but it's something that you should be wearing. I mean, everyone can pull it off. And that's a specific example, but we really looked at the wardrobe top to bottom and are giving you ways to enhance yours. And not necessarily replace things, but to supplement things. And you don't need to buy all 26 or an item from all 26 categories. But if you find a half-dozen or a dozen of them that really stick with you, they're going to slip into your current wardrobe well and really elevate it.
Nick Caruso:
Would you suggest that people use these to supplement, like you just said, or actually replace items that maybe they've had for a while?
Evan Malachosky:
Yeah. I mean, I think going back to the chore coat example, we had nicknames for all of them. And we were calling this one, the blazer replacer. That's something that it could really sub in for these things in scenarios where you were wanting to look a little more put together, but didn't want to go through the effort of wearing a blazer or a sport coat that just seemed like maybe a little too much, and you didn't want to go full suit so separates would seem weird. So newer chore coats can sub in in that realm in that sort of situation.
Evan Malachosky:
As far as other things go, I mean, if I'm telling you to replace something, it's to replace it with something better, that you won't then have to replace. We have investment boots as a category within the piece where I'm recommending you buy this more expensive pair of boots upfront that can be resold, will just last longer, they've been made to last longer. And you're not going to be, every three or four seasons, just having to spend another couple hundred bucks on a middle-of-the-road pair of boots that you'll eventually have to replace as well.
Evan Malachosky:
So those are scenarios where we are saying, "Replace this with this." But most times, it's a suggestion of, "Well, you could be wearing this instead of what..." If you have an athletic or a performance fabric t-shirt that you're wearing with jeans or whatever it may be, we want to steer you in the direction of maybe a vintage t-shirt. That's another category within the story. So it's things like that. It's never, "You are doing everything wrong. Do this instead." It's like, it's giving you insight to the larger landscape, and then giving you products to tap into it.
Nick Caruso:
Sure. Sort of explore, maybe expand your horizons in a way.
Evan Malachosky:
Definitely.
Nick Caruso:
I really like the idea of a chore coat replacing a blazer. Feels very like a fresh take on really traditional stuff. Was that the impetus behind this? Or is this like a coming, starting to come out of a pandemic? Is that inspiration? Or where did the fuel for this fire come from?
Evan Malachosky:
I think it comes from a few places. I think that it is... I mean, as much as people have talked about the storyline of emerging after the pandemic, that is a part of this. It's the situations that you're in now have changed. Maybe you're not working in an office. You're working from home. And so you don't need the suit that you were wearing every day at the office, or the tons of different dress shoes you needed for different events or dinners or whatever it may be.
Evan Malachosky:
But I think it was also... I mean, honestly, this story was pitched initially as a guide to the basics within your wardrobe, but like who makes the best t-shirt? Who makes the best socks? And then once we tried to translate that to who makes the best chore coat, we found ourselves trying to cover too much ground. We couldn't say, "This is the best parka chore coat, bomber jacket, blazer," and list everything you could possibly buy. So we really looked out to look in. We talked about trends within the past year, just what people have been wearing, what people should be wearing, what seems right for right now, and then applied that to pillar categories, like footwear, tops, and bottoms, and found the jacket or the sneaker or the t-shirt that embodied this past year and maybe the next one as well.
Nick Caruso:
Got it. So is it fair to say that while you do recommend specific products, which we can explore momentarily, that these also serve as archetypes for people? If I'm looking for investment boots, do I need to... Do you think I should just go grab these John Lofgren moc toes or something along those lines to consider swapping out in my own collection?
Evan Malachosky:
Yeah. Yeah. I mean, I think the story begins with the category. Within the sweatshirt category, for example, we're telling a story of this trade brand from... I'm living in Pennsylvania. So it's bad that I don't know this, but it's Norristown. I always call it Norrisville, but it's Norristown, Pennsylvania. And it might even be Norrisville. I might be back again, back and forth again. But they are a tiny trade-oriented sweatshirt. Just think of your run of... Like Gildan, but smaller, and impossible to get in contact with, and they don't sell their things anywhere. But that's all fueled this obsession with them. And they are very nice, super heavy, the perfect sweatshirt, but you can't buy them.
Evan Malachosky:
So that category is talking about... It's like a trend piece within this big wardrobe-buying guide. So all of them have that element of, there's a story within the larger story, and then we offer you the products that we talk about. So in that category, there are small stores that have gotten their hands on a couple of them and are selling them. There's one called Blacksmith in London that it's selling. I want to say they have like 10 of each color that they're selling for like a hundred bucks.
Nick Caruso:
Oh my God.
Evan Malachosky:
And yeah, so it's... We're suggesting you get a better sweatshirt by telling you the story of this just fascinating brand that's become this cult obsession.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah. And I'm just looking right now. The brand is called Camber.
Evan Malachosky:
Yes. Yeah.
Nick Caruso:
And Norristown was correct. That's really, really fascinating. I'm a sweatshirt fan, as you can tell by the video that you're looking at right now. That's really cool. What about, what are other little... We're not going to be able to dive into every single category here, but are there other... What are some other examples kind of like that, where maybe the one you're suggesting is a little more esoteric or maybe a little harder to come by than others? I mean, there are Carhartt utility pants in here. People know where to get those. But are there some that folks might not be able to get the specific recommendation of or is that [crosstalk 00:11:15]?
Evan Malachosky:
Yeah, no. I mean, within the footwear category, we recommend dad shoes, which is essentially just our way of connecting on New Balances. I mean, they've been something that were sort of a snafu for a little bit, and were maybe not the sneaker of choice for a lot of people, I mean, for a long time. I think if people were to rank their favorite sneaker brands, I don't know if New Balance was cracking the top five. But there are people who have loved them forever so it's this interesting divide. But this year, they were very much no doubt the it sneaker brand as far as the big ones go. And it was within this pick of offering you three Made in USA 993s from New Balance, which are the made in US emphasis on material, emphasis on construction that make them a better sneaker from some of their cheaper options.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah.
Evan Malachosky:
I mean, it is an 185-dollar New Balance, which is still... If you're buying a lifestyle sneaker, that seems crazy. But they've always been this price, and now they're harder to buy than ever. And you'll find the collaborations that they've done, which they've done tons this year, what's really been the driving force for them in 2021. There's been collaborations with so many different designers. Those are fetching several hundred, close to a thousand, if not over a thousand dollars on resale sites. So it's something where we're making you aware that that's happening, and then we're giving you the sneakers that you might not have to go to a resale site to find, but are benefiting from this momentum. So they're cool sneakers because New Balance is very cool right now.
Nick Caruso:
Right on.
Evan Malachosky:
So it's another interesting one where it's a dissection of a trend translated to picks.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah. Not your dad's-dad-shoe kind of vibe.
Evan Malachosky:
Dad's dad shoe.
Nick Caruso:
And a side note. I just have to say, and this is going to be a personal plug because I'm just so proud. The number three pick... I know you start with shoes, like you said, footwear. The number three on the list is a pair of Koio triple-white sneakers, leather sneakers. And I'd be lying if I told you I wasn't wearing a pair of those earlier today. It's my go-to.
Evan Malachosky:
Would you look at that? Yeah.
Nick Caruso:
I, I mean, love that brand so much. I love those shoes.
Evan Malachosky:
Yeah. I mean, for that one in particular, it's pointing out... We call the section the pearly whites, just a basic white sneaker. And this is one where I would say this is kind of an essential. If you don't have this or if you have something like it, buy it and wear it, or buy it and replace what you do have. A very simple white sneaker. I mean, you might see it everywhere. But there are so many different versions of it now that you can really find one that works super, super well for you and will come something... If it's a Koio one, I mean, they hold up super well.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah.
Evan Malachosky:
And they're ones that you... And they won't last as long as a pair of investment boots, but I mean, they'll live plenty long. You'll get your money's worth for sure.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah. Yeah. No, those are on a shelf... I can't believe I'm spending so much time on this, but those are on a shelf I'm looking at right now, next to my first pair of Koios, which I think I got four years ago. And I just, I just don't want to give them up. They're so comfortable, but I'm slowly breaking in the new ones. Anyway, what other... While we're on that, we can sort of transition out of it, but I want to ask you if you have... Which of these pieces on here are some of your personal favorites? Any that really just stand out to you, whether it's... We can go into other categories too. There's footwear, there are shirts, of course, there are hats, and other accessories, watches, other jewelry. Any here that are special highlights for you?
Evan Malachosky:
Yeah, I think, I mean, I think with anything, if you start dabbling in it enough, it becomes an obsession. And I think vintage t-shirts, and I think vintage as a whole, has been something that I've become much more interested in in the past, I'd say like two or three years. And it really came to a head over the past, probably, six months of being able to go back to flea markets and thrift stores. And there's another piece within the magazine... I'm not trying to give spoilers, but another piece in the magazine about a vintage spot here in Pittsburgh. So what I'm trying to say is within the tops category, we recommend vintage t-shirts. And it's something where obviously, it's impossible to give a super specific pick because such is, there are only so many of each of these, if not only one.
Evan Malachosky:
So it's something where we really get down to the nitty-gritty of what makes vintage and vintage t-shirts interesting, which is that they're all so different and they might be super esoteric in that it's merch from a marathon in 2011 that just... If you're a design person or if you're whatever it may be, a running person, that can really hit a spot that maybe newer stuff just, it doesn't have that sort of charm. And you're finding that just over and over again, oftentimes at a cheaper price. So it's something where the value for price comes from... It's just sort of unmatched in new stuff, and that's where our pick for that comes from. I mean, I think another interesting one is I have an interesting relationship with prep, like prep clothing and prep styles.
Nick Caruso:
Okay. Sure.
Evan Malachosky:
Very much went through phases in high school and college of, I would dive super deep into prep. I had family members, cousins who were Vineyard Vines to a T type of people.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah. Sure.
Evan Malachosky:
And I mean, it's so interesting to see now that however many years later, it's sort of coming back. But outside of that, beyond that context of Ivy League prep school, rich kid, all of these markers, and that's what's making it interesting this second time around. I mean, black-owned brands doing prep, bigger brands reimagining their prep staples, so the rugby shirt category within tops as well. Seeing something that is very prep take on an edge and have this sort of patina now that it's X number of years into its life as a product, that's another super interesting one. I mean, there's so many. And this list was very much a mental shopping list translated for our readers.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah. I mean, luckily, we hand you the reins to this stuff because you've got great taste. The prep thing. I'm older than you. So when I was in high school, the closest that I think the prep trend came in in my purview or in my life was when guys would stack polo shirts.
Evan Malachosky:
Stack polos. Yes.
Nick Caruso:
Dude, was that a thing for you?
Evan Malachosky:
I mean, I think the... I don't think stacking was by the time I was, but I think the polo definitely still stuck around. There's an infamous photo of me wearing a pink one.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah?
Evan Malachosky:
I had a nice pink Ralph Lauren polo.
Nick Caruso:
Of course. Yeah. I think I can picture one of the guys I went to high school with with I believe three and a puka shell necklace. Yeah, it was a vibe. It was a vibe before people said things were vibes. That's where it originated. That was the first vibe, first recorded vibe. Cool. So we talked about a bunch of different categories on here. You've got your own sort of like... Obviously, there's a lot of your own... You have a very personal connection to this. But say someone's coming into the new essentials fresh. Let's also say this hypothetical person has none of these items. I don't know if that's actually possible, but let's just say they don't, or they could stand to replace whatever they do have. Where should they start? They're going one thing at a time. Maybe the person's you. Where would you start?
Evan Malachosky:
So do you mean a specific category? Or are you talking if they read the entire piece, I guess, which they should buy first?
Nick Caruso:
That's right. You're going to start building or supplementing a wardrobe from this piece. You got to start, yeah, from the story. Where do you start?
Evan Malachosky:
I think there are two places you could start. And I think that both of them are because of they're just such long-lasting pieces, they're things that you're going to spend the money on them this one time and they're something that could live with you for a couple of decades, and I think that is a full canvas suit. I think a price year one that you can... I mean, ultimately everyone needs a suit at some point. And it's a pain to forego buying one or buying a cheap one, and then when it's not working or when you need one, renting one or whatever that process looks like for you. So I think it is finding a quality suit. And in my recommendation, it's a full canvas one, which just means it is lined with canvas, the jacket, top to bottom instead of a half canvas, which is what... A half or no canvas, which is what most suits are.
Evan Malachosky:
And just the construction better forms to your body. It's an easier suit to get alterations done on. And it's just something that really meshes to you, and the way you wear it, the more you wear it. So if you're getting five, six wears out of it, I think that's probably as often as I wear a suit each year, maybe a little more. I've got a couple weddings next year. But I think that you're just slowly breaking in something that will look better and better. And if there are... And if that you go... I mean, if you have to make tweaks to it, it's not an issue. You can totally get that done over time.
Evan Malachosky:
And I think sort of on the opposite end of the spectrum, it's a nice pair of boots. And I think that our recommendations are pricier ones from really, really nice brands. But I think that if you're finding a boot that has markers, like are resellable, there's your well construction, there's some sort of certification as far as the leather goes or the materials used. Those are things that you can really... I mean, that's not fake marketing stuff that you can toss around. If your boots are resellable, when you need to get them resold, they can be resold. So it's something that you know for sure.
Evan Malachosky:
And it's just, those are things that... Boot styles, I mean, one might become more popular than another in a given year. But if you find one that you like and really fits within your wardrobe as is or the wardrobe that you're envisioning. And I mean, it can really be a starting point. If you foresee a certain style that you want to be dressing in, buy the boots that are going to work with it, and they are going to last a super long time. So a starting place to build around from.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah, for sure. Two great suggestions. In case people are not well versed in suits or versed very well, which is the exact same thing, when you say canvas, it's the material that is the lining inside a suit. It's not like a canvas that's...
Evan Malachosky:
A canvas suit. [crosstalk 00:24:15]
Nick Caruso:
Right, yeah, like a duck canvas or something. It's just the name of that material. That's super great. That's good advice. Something else. One of the last things I wanted to ask you about, something I noticed about the curation of this list, meaning the specific items that you're recommending, not the archetypal take, but the specific ones, is that there are a lot of bold styles in here. Oftentimes, when there are, let's call them a full wardrobe suggestion collection, you're looking at things that are very cohesive or neutral or safe. And that's not really what's going on here. Not to say that you're pushing every boundary. But there's some stuff... There's bright yellow, what you call statement loafers, and a Cartier tank that's on almost a minty green leather strap, that kind of stuff. I just wonder what you have to say about that, like how you think about that kind of eclectic style?
Evan Malachosky:
Yeah. I mean, definitely. I think that sort of going back to the story, the seed of the story, prescribing people basics, and maybe the sweater that goes with everything, or the t-shirt that goes with everything, or the jeans you can wear... And this is to not knock any... I mean, there are brands that call things 365 pants or 365 whatever.
Nick Caruso:
Right. Right.
Evan Malachosky:
It's not that all of these items have that functionality. I'm not saying that your loafer should be worn 365 days a year. I mean, especially if it's a canary yellow one. But I think that people... I mean, I could never give people an entire list of things, and they'd be like, "Yep, this all works together, this all works for me, and I know exactly how to put together an outfit tomorrow." And I think that that's something that just as the desk as a whole, we've been working on... I mean, we run a series that's very plainly just called Today, We'd Wear. And it's just visually putting together an outfit.
Evan Malachosky:
And so we're doing the work to help people with that and help people establish a foundation beyond the new essentials. Because the new essentials, they can be supplemental. And maybe the loafers isn't what someone will come away with, but maybe a yellow loafer is perfect for someone. And that brand, Blackstock & Weber is that brand that makes the canary yellow Ellis loafer. They have so many different, interesting, colorful, textural, just super luxe loafers that someone will find one that works really well for them. And I think that honestly, out of... Just going back to loafers again and the super bright or super interesting option, I think that's probably... If I'm wearing an entire outfit that's very tonal and I'm wearing one of my super bright loafers, I think that's probably what is catching the most attention and the most compliments. It's rare that it's a, why are you wearing bright yellow or bright animal print loafers?
Evan Malachosky:
We want to help people have the confidence to wear these things by giving them the base level knowledge about them, and why they're popular, and why they're being made, and where the designer was coming from. So I think that yes, a lot of the picks... I mean, maybe not a lot of them. But some of the picks are going to push some people out of the box that they may have been pulling from for their closet before. But I think that's a good thing. I don't think that there are necessarily rules to any of this. I think you should be wearing what you like. And I like those loafers, and I think people will as well, and I think people do. I think that's the crux of it, is make it fun, make it interesting.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah. Good. It's sort of like... What popped into my mind is if you could put on canary yellow loafers, the rest of your outfit kind of has to do the physics thing. It has to do the equal opposite reaction, so you have to expand and contract with those picks, but that's not to say... Like we said earlier, you could dress like me, everybody, and wear all-white Koio sneakers, jeans, and a crew neck sweatshirt every day, and you'd still technically be following Evan's advice.
Evan Malachosky:
You would be.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah. There's a lot of options here. That's the new basics for anyone, and it should be anyone, all of you interested, 26 items that span... It just covered such a vast scope here so that you are bound to find many items that will inspire you, maybe you'll pick up the exact ones. If you do, definitely let us know. I would love to know if someone just sweeps in and grabs all 26, in particular, those sweatshirts no one can find. The story is the new essentials. It's online, gearpatrol.com. It is in the new Gear Patrol Magazine, which you should keep your eyes peeled for. That is happening very soon. My guest is Evan Malachosky. Evan, you've been a blast to talk to about this as usual.
Evan Malachosky:
Appreciate it, Nick. Thanks for having me.
Nick Caruso:
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Of course. Yeah. We'll do it again before too long. And if anybody wants any information about anything we talked about, the links to the new essentials are down in the show notes or on the post, and you can click around there. Make sure you hit us up, shoot us a photo of what you get or questions about your own wardrobe on social media @gearpatrol, one word, everywhere. And you can email us too at podcast@gearpatrol.com. So the new essentials should be inspiring a lot of questions so ask away. And that is it for this week. Evan, thanks again. And for Gear Patrol, I'm Nick Caruso. And until next time, take care.